Friday, December 08, 2006

Washington DC - Capital of the Free World (!?)



I commented on the history of Philadelphia previously, Washington DC is a completely different place. It's newer but it's more important. Not only does it look more important, it feels more important. People stride about with far more purpose than in Philly.

Though I enjoyed the laidback style of Philly, the Washington humdrum is exciting in its unique way. Traffic is atrocious, walking is faster than driving at 5pm at night and there are police and fire trucks EVERYWHERE, car horns are used with abandon and it's never quiet.

Except on the Mall.

The Mall contains some of America's most "sacred" memorials. The Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial (see photo right), the Korean War Memorial, the Vietnam War Memorial, the World War II Memorial and the Washington Monument (the pointy photo). If America does anything besides steaks and ribs well, it's symbolism and connecting their history with their present and future. Americans have a great understanding of their history, where they have come from as a nation and although this has meant they think America is the only place on Earth (again stereotyping), they know and love their country.

Quite simply, Australians know very little about their own country. We might criticise Americans for not knowing about the rest of the world, but for goodness sake, I think far too many Australians know too little about our own history. How come we keep moaning that Australia has no history and yet we don't think America has no history even though it's a scant 100 years or so older? It's because we haven't braced our past and instead try to ignore it - to our detriment I believe.

Anyhow, how is my rant relevant? Well, the historical sites and clamour to reclaim sites because of their historical purpose has generated huge amounts of tourism and fascination. To illustrate this, I'll talk about Mt Vernon.

Mt Vernon was George Washington's estate. He inherited from his father and then older brother and now it has become a bit of a national shrine to the man himself, particularly as he is buried along with his wife in a tomb on the estate. The mansion which has this most wonderful view over the Potomac River has been restored so carefully, it has about 40% original furniture in it. Fat chance of Edmund Barton's house being kept up to date.

That aside, I've been to the major Washington attractions, the notable exception being the museum I most wanted to see, the Smithsonian Museum of American History - which has been closed for renovations until 2008 - GRRR!!!! The National Air and Space Museum is really quite incredible - the amount of detail and the care with which they've designed the exhibits is astounding. They've hung World War II fighter planes from the roof and have a display cabinet carrying every single type of aerial ammunition used by the major air forces in World War II. They have an original Lunar Module that was used as a backup for Aldrin and Armstrong - and other remarkable things - and of course, the 1903 Wright Flyer.

It's an easy city to navigate around - I wish Sydney was like this. Streets are numbered and lettered - the higher the number and letter the further you are from the Capitol - easy.

It's supposed to snow tonight (30% chance) and I'm train-ing to New York, so your prayers are appreciated. The wind coming off the Potomac River is very very sharp - and walking to the Jefferson Memorial and the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial was very very cold.

Tuesday, December 05, 2006

Philly and Washington DC






This trip has been an eye-opening experience. I guess there's the stereotype we have of Americans, that they drive big cars, they eat big and they are big around their waistline. Well, as much as I hate placing people into stereotypes, it couldn't be closer to the truth.

The Yanks serve huge portions of food. I went to this place in Philly last night, and being a tapas place, I thought I could eat 2 plates worth. I ordered some lobster mashed potatoes that was piled higher than Mt Everest and a crab pad thai that was bigger than Canada. And they called that tapas!!!!!.....

Fortunately their "bigness" extends to some good things. I went to Tenth Presbyterian Church in Delancey St Philly and it was a traditional Presy service. Good solid, exegetical preaching with hymns accompanied by a full brass choir (at least 5 piece) and timpani and tubular bells - pretty much orchestral in nature - was quite inspiring. Bigger can be better after all. I was welcomed by an American sitting next to me in the pew, that was encouraging - he has a son in Australia - in "Mell-BORN".

I then went to the Philadelphia Orchestra - a boyhood dream fulfilled. One of the greatest orchestras in the world - it was a pity they only did Mozart, so they couldn't unleash their full power, but their delicacy shone out yesterday. Superb ensemble in a hall that leaves Sydney for dead. Sydney's exterior may be awesome, but any musician worth his/her salt knows that the Opera House Concert Hall's acoustics are deadset awful. The Verizon Hall in the new Kimmel Center [sic] for the the Performing Arts is a modern classic, wonderfully detailed on the inside with great sight-lines and clear acoustics. What a hall! And to think they're doing Sprach there on Thursday night........grrr

Washington DC is freezing - my legs went numb, I couldn't feel them walking through the Mall this afternoon. Plenty of tourists around, and plenty of people wanting me to help them take photos. I hate shooting with point and shoots though - i find them harder to use than an SLR. Grr.....

I lost my beanie too - dropped it whilst trying to wrestle my bag out of the doors of a train on the Washington Metro. Not happy!

I'm looking forward to the Smithsonian museums tomorrow - should be awesome - and a tour to Mt Vernon on Wednesday, that will be great.